Din Make-Up Magazine Romania

CUM ALEGEM CULOAREA POTRIVITA DE CORECTOR PENTRU A ACOPERI DIVERSE PROBLEME ALE TENULUI ?

* Culoarea alba: Acest corector este utilizat pentru a lumina zonele intunecate ale pielii, cu toate acestea, se foloseste pentru a masca problemele pielii foarte deschise la culoare, pentru care oricare nuante de bej ar fi prea inchise. Poate fi, utilizat deasemenea ca si un iluminator in corectia formei fetei (crearea ovalului) pentru a sublinia si a scoate in evidenta o anumita zona.
* Culoarea violet-roza (lavanda): Aceasta culoare neutralizeaza galbenul si verdele si de aceea se recomanda in principal pentru toate tipurile de ten cu o nuanta de galben nesanatos. Deasemenea acest corector acopera perfect vanataile in curs de tratare sau se mai foloseste pentru a acoperi urmele operatiilor plastice (mici pete de nuanta galben si verde). Expresia: “esti palid” se refera la nuanta nesanatoasa de galben a tenului. Cu o corectie corecta si o pudra speciala putem reda tenului aspectul de proaspat-sanatos.
* Culoarea violet (mov cu albastru): pentru petele pigmentate mari, create, de exemplu de un autobranzand aplicat prost. Ele se curata foarte greu, dar nici pe fata nu-si doreste sa le vada nimeni – se pot corecta / acoperi cu aceasta nuanta de corector mov-violet.
* Corector verde: aici lucrurile sunt mai clare, s-a scris foarte mult despre utilizarea lui si probabil sunt foarte putini cei care nu stiu ca verdele acopera roseata. Acest corector se foloseste pentru acoperirea cicatricilor/urmelor de acnee. Deasemenea cu aceasta nuanta pot fi corectate cicatricile proaspete dupa un bronz agresiv, capilare sparte. Corectorul verde se foloseste dupa un peeling chimic sau cu laser, cand tenul capata o nuanta roz-inrosita.
* Corector de nuata portocaliu/orange (mai mult rosu, decat galben): pentru pielea palida si obosita. Regleaza nuanta galben-maslinie a tenului. Se utilizeaza pentru a lumina si a reda tonului natural al fetei – prospetime si viata.
* Corector portocaliu (cu mai mult galben decat rosu): inlatura cearcanele, venele si petele inchise a tenului
* Corector de culoare galbena: inlatura petele de nuante mov-violet (vanat) de sub ochi. Aduce un plus de caldura in aspectul tenului.
* Nuanta bej a corectorului: improspateaza si invie nuanta generala a tenului, acopera problemele ramase a pielii corectand si uniformizand deasupra ceea ce am corectat inainte, atfel spus – uniformizam toata etapa corectiei. De exemplu: dupa ce am corectat cearcanele puternice cu nuanta potrivita, iar peste venim cu bej.




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Color-Correction in a Tube

Pro Picks: Color-Correction in a Tube

One of my favorite parts of being a makeup artist is making skin look flawless. The skin is made up of multiple undertones and tints, and getting an even base requires the expert help of color correction. By neutralizing discoloration with a complementary shade instead of heavily layering  on the concealer, the result is a more realistic, even finish.
Why don’t concealers always do the trick? Traditional cover-up is usually dense and highly pigmented—layered opaquely to cover or camouflage. This isn’t always optimal, especially in TV or film. The effect can look very different on camera because of the way it absorbs light versus natural skin or foundation, adding excess texture on the surface of the skin.
In cosmetic color theory, two complementary colors (red and green, blue and orange, and purple and yellow) cancel one another out and neutralize when combined. For those with ruddy cheeks, sallow skin, or dark circles, it’s a makeup miracle.

Face primers are the easiest way to try the technique out for yourself. Smashbox Cosmetics is the godfather of all color-correctors, and their Photo Finish Color Correcting Primers are legendary for ridding the skin of discoloration from rosacea, blemishes, or around the nose where people tend to have more redness showing through. You can use a thin, sheer, veil of color placed over the discolored area of the skin to neutralize and then adjust the color to skin tone.
A primer in the orange family is fantastic for getting rid of blue discoloration. I love to carry deep orange correctors for darker skin tones and a Smashbox Primer in Apricot for lighter complexions. For under eye discoloration, visible veins, and bruises, this apricot shade cuts those cool blue undertones—leaving the skin neutralized and ready for base makeup, or even on its own.
If you are dealing with sallow skin that needs a quick pick up, a lavender/lilac type of corrector will brighten and revitalize. Smashbox Cosmetics Photo Finish Color Correcting Primer in Balanced is a brilliant way to lift even the most tired skin. These three shades are available in travel size, too, which is so convenient for the makeup artist on the move.
So remember—creating a flawless canvas isn’t about painting over your imperfections. It’s about using the power of color to create beauty without packing on pigment. Understanding color correction will give you greater power to be a pro and help you make every client look model perfect. A must have for every kit.



Sursa: http://www.beautylish.com/a/vxvwn/pro-picks-color-correction-in-a-tube

Shogun - pdf (lb engleza)

Shogun James Clavell - engleza